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#The100DayProject Day 76 No story today. Instead

#The100DayProject Day 76

No story today. Instead I am thinking about all our friends and the other wonderful people who helped to shape our two trips to India. Their kindness, generosity and helpfulness were humbling. Being unable to visit India at the moment is a very minor inconvenience for us compared to the people who must live and work there through this awful pandemic. I wish you all well in these difficult times.

#the100dayproject #100indiamemories #india #indiatravels #indiaphotographs #indiastories #fujifilm_xseries #x100f #travelphotography #travelgram #travelblogger #traveltheworld #travelblog #lockdownproject #TravelTheWorld #TravelWithMe #LetsTravel #TravelInspiration #StayAndWander #Adventure_Culture #NeverStopExploring #travelwriting #fujifilm_street

#The100DayProject Day 75 One thing we noticed abo

#The100DayProject Day 75

One thing we noticed about the men in India was that they were really fond of weird sparkly woollens in very vivid colours. Each day we would pass by dozens of guys in vibrant hues of mainly orange or red tank tops, almost always accented with a liberal sprinting of metallic sparkles.

#the100dayproject #100indiamemories #india #indiatravels #indiaphotographs #indiastories #fujifilm_xseries #x100f #travelphotography #travelgram #travelblogger #traveltheworld #travelblog #lockdownproject #TravelTheWorld #TravelWithMe #LetsTravel #TravelInspiration #StayAndWander #Adventure_Culture #NeverStopExploring #travelwriting #fujifilm_street

#The100DayProject Day 74 I still cannot get over

#The100DayProject Day 74

I still cannot get over the way that animals and humans in India integrate to such a level that neither side really seems to pay the other much attention. Shortly before I made this photograph this fine bull was free to wander about as he pleased, right in the middle of Delhi old town, close to the Chandni Chowk market. It had a rope, but it wasn’t tied to anything at all. The guy in the red sweater with the cart was about to attach the ox to it to go and shift a load of building materials. If such a large animal was spotted anywhere in the UK outside of its field it would be chaos but here, in the land where animals still form part of the workforce, it is totally normal.

Seeing this photograph reminded me of a particular day in Agra. We were out and about with our friendly Tuk Tuk driver Gaffar when we had stopped to try and find a shop selling pens and paper as small gifts for his children. We were mindlessly ambling along a narrow road, slightly fatigued by the warm sun and most likely full of some kind of delicious food, when a helpful man gently nudged us away from the roadside.

We turned around just in time to see a large stampede of water buffalo, probably numbering 20 or so animals, sprinting up the road at a fair pace. The flew past us, much closer than I would have liked, and on up the road. And then, seconds later, life returned to normal. Now this was a built up area, like a regular city centre street lined with shops and street food stalls, and nobody spoke of it at all. When we asked Gaffar what they were up to he said that it was just what they do from time to time and not to worry about it. He also said that only sometimes people get run down by them, but not often.

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#The100DayProject Day 73 Whenever we stayed in ho

#The100DayProject Day 73

Whenever we stayed in hotels, particularly in Delhi, there were people hanging about a short distance away who were there to try and get you to go to a particular place so that they could earn some kind of commission from the owner of that establishment. If it wasn’t people on foot then there would be taxi drivers cruising slowly around the block waiting to have a chat with you. They were never too close to the hotels themselves because the doormen would shoo them away like scolded dogs.

The banter was always fairly light hearted and it was never a problem. In one particular hotel we used for 4 nights we saw the very same taxi driver every morning and every evening, always trying to persuade us to go to some big shopping mall out of town. All the people who were there, trying to earn some extra cash, used the same stories.

If it was the morning they would proclaim that the whole of Delhi was closed due to a strike / national holiday / government crackdown. On more than one occasion we had just stepped out of a shop and one of the guys would come sauntering over to tell you that everything was closed but he knew of a mysterious place that had somehow escaped the shutdown. When we pointed out that we had just been into a shop, right there and then, they would say that the whole of Delhi was closed, except for that one shop, and that one shop was bad anyway and we shouldn't even be in there.

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#The100DayProject Day 72 I skipped a day yesterda

#The100DayProject Day 72

I skipped a day yesterday because we celebrated the relaxation of the Covid travel restrictions and headed off to the Neuk of Fife for a bit of the change of scene. As well as visiting our favourite Cambo Gardens we went to the beach, although it was too cold for any swimming. On our first trip to India we also stopped by a beach for a few hours and it did not disappoint. We had only been in the country for a day or two and we were definitely not quite ready for the energy and craziness there. It was somewhat different to the quiet and peaceful sandy coves of Scotland.

The main reason we were there was to visit some holy relics and one of India’s oldest temple - the Shore temple at Mahabalipuram. The temple is a Unesco world heritage site and was certainly quite interesting, but what was more interesting was the beach industry that has built up around it.

The large car park was full of busses bringing pilgrims to the area to pray, visit the holy temple and bathe in the sea. The busses were adorned from one end to the other with garlands of holy neem tree leaves. Unlike the Ganges in Varanasi, however, there was more than a slight resemblance to Scarborough and I couldn’t help but get the feeling that the religious aspect had somehow been forgotten about. The temples were largely deserted because everyone was caught up in the stalls selling all manner of lurid plastic junk.

You could buy pink plastic keychains depicting the temples, pink candy floss, luminous t-shirts, buckets and spades and plastic Hindu Gods. Plastic trucks, diggers, aliens, unidentifiable children’s characters, guitars and all manner of lurid stuffed toys. If it was plastic or pink or completely useless you would find it there.

Walking to the beach through the long lines of stalls was entertaining but exhausting. Everyone there was a tourist but we stood out as tourists with a bit more cash than most and everyone offered us their wares. Not really wanting a cat-sized orange plastic model of the God Hanuman we pushed on through the crowds to the beach itself.

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#The100DayProject Day 71 Having spent a few momen

#The100DayProject Day 71

Having spent a few moments watching the ladies wrap coloured threads around the tree early one morning in Varanasi we decided it was time for breakfast. Typically, though, we couldn’t get everything we wanted in one place and had to browse the various street food vendors that are always scattered along the streets of so many Indian towns.

First, to wake us up, a cup of hot chai was needed. They make this by boiling a large saucepan of milk which also contains grated ginger root and large amounts of tea. From what we saw, the entire mixture never seems to be entirely used - they simply keep adding more of each of the three ingredients through the day. When the milk boils up to the top of the pot they manage to stop it boiling over and down the sides of the pan by whacking the top with a sieve. No idea how it works but it is quite effective.

After tea we bought some fruit from a different stall and then, although we were quite happy with our breakfast, an alluring smell came wafting past us and we were drawn to eat more than we needed yet again. Over-eating was always a problem when you are surrounded by such tasty food. We traced the smell to a man making uttapams on a hotplate. They are slightly puffy savoury leavened pancakes made from a mixture of rice and lentil flour.

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#The100DayProject Day 70 I can’t believe I’ve

#The100DayProject Day 70

I can’t believe I’ve written 70 little notes about our trips to India. Only 30 more to go! Today’s picture illustrates another reason that I definitely need to revisit this fascinating place.

In Varanasi we decided to get up in the chilly darkness around 5am to go and view the town at a different time than usual. At this hour the streets are somehow the same, but a different version of themselves. There are still confusing religious practices happening all around us, but at this time of the day they were different and, mercifully, being so early in the morning most were done almost silently.

We left our apartment and walked slowly down the deserted narrow lanes we were quite familiar with by now. We emerged into the square that isn’t a square where market traders were only just beginning to lay out their fruit and vegetables. The cattle and dogs were heaped up together by the embers of last night’s fire and the rubbish was piled up awaiting the sweeping women who would come along with their cart and collect it.

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#The100DayProject Day 69 Street dogs. There are t

#The100DayProject Day 69

Street dogs. There are thousands in India, and you can’t avoid them. India certainly isn’t unique in this respect as we have seen huge numbers in South America and other Asian countries such as Thailand too but one thing that seemed to be a little different was the way the dogs looked.

In Argentina, for example, the packs of dogs roaming around the streets, and even coming to rest their sorrowful head on your knee inside a restaurant hopeful of a scrap of spare food, consisted of a wide variety of mongrels. The range of colours and sizes was about as wide as it could be. India, however, seemed different in that the dogs in each town were all almost identical with only the odd exception.

In the towns of Varanasi, Jaipur, Udaipur and Agra they were mostly medium sized and sandy coloured with good sized ears that must help them to cool off in the hot summer months. Down in Chennai they seemed predominantly a little darker and larger and when we visited the curious French speaking town of Pondicherry, even further south, most dogs we saw were black. I don’t know the exact reason for these localised breeds of dogs but I am going to hazard a guess because I enjoy pondering such things.

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